The Plan
We became members of the new
Museum of the American Revolution in Philly a few months ago and intended to go out for their opening weekend, April 22. However, we ended up having a scheduling conflict that weekend and
every weekend until at least the middle of May. We found out that they were having a special members-only preview weekend April 15th and 16th and decided to make it out on Saturday. I should have known then that this project would be more difficult than imagined.
The Partner in Crime just started a new job where she's working ten hour days whereas I've had a lot of free time, so I offered to work on her outfit for her and I wanted to make an overdress to wear with my red petticoat. This all
seemed like a good idea at the time.
I didn't expect any of this to be terribly difficult or time consuming...after all, I only needed to make a few pieces!
For her:
The Petticoat: Petticoats are easy! And since she's similarly sized to me, almost an exact copy of mine, I'll just needed to hem it for her. No big deal. (Famous last words...)
The Jacket: She decided to add a little peplum and the swallow tail back to the Simplicity Outlander jacket pattern. The jacket fit her well overall, but we needed to make the sleeves a bit bigger and do a mockup with the modifications to make sure they actually worked. But that's easy! (You see where this is going, right?)
The Stomacher: She also decided she wanted to make a stomacher, which I didn't make for mine since I modified mine to have a front closure. The Simplicity pattern comes with a stomacher and we planned to used that pattern. No modifications! Easy!
For me:
A new overdress. Yep, "just" that.
For both of us:
Some undergarments; bum pads and pockets, and hats.
The Reality
These costumes almost weren't.
She happened to have Friday off and no part of either of our outfits was actually completed at the start of the day. Then things needed to be purchased, trips to the craft store needed to be made, we were plagued with weird and annoying issues, including that a large portion of Philly is shut down for the NFL draft, and we still had no idea how we were actually going to get into the city (at one point a horse drawn carriage was considered. Not kidding). Although we got a lot of work done, by the end of the day it was obvious that we weren't going to make it out Saturday. We decided to work at it again on Saturday and ultimately did make it to the museum on Sunday, but on the way home, after a third very long day, we both admitted that we almost packed it in and called the whole thing off. I'm glad we didn't.
Her Outfit
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This whole thing was done in about 2 days, |
The petticoat is just a basic petticoat. I French seamed the side seams and pleated the top to the waistband. I did learn when I made mine that the front ties need to be long enough to wrap around the back and then back to the front or I can't keep them tight enough. When she bought the fabric we both swore it was blue. It's labeled as navy and definitely looked navy in the store, but it's purple everywhere else. It was almost as easy as I thought it would be.
For the jacket we started with the
Simplicity 8161 pattern, but added a swallow tail back and a little peplum at the front, loosely based off the garments in the Janet Arnold book and Costumes Close Up. We also needed to make the sleeve just a bit bigger. It's still not fitting exactly right, but it's an easy fix.
She made fabric covered buttons and we used the "
button trick" to set the buttons. These buttons are the cutest things and now I'm mad that I didn't do covered buttons for mine.
The stomacher is straight from the Simplicity pattern, no modifications.
My Dress
Before starting on her stuff, I had mostly completed my dress. I'm using that Waverly Felicite "curtain along" fabric in cream. I had bought the very last 3 yards of this stuff when I caught it on sale last year. I stalked the remnants section and managed to find two pieces, each about a yard. I had just enough to get all the jacket bits on the remnants and make the skirt out of the 3 yard piece. I only realized after it was all together that the colors are very slightly off between the top and bottom. they must have been from different dye lots.
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That pattern matching is entirely by luck
|
I used Simplicity 8161 for the bodice, modifying it to close at the front with buttons. I also added a long skirt intending to fluff it up retroussée (this is all actually held up with safety pins, one of which may have poked me in the bum. Yep.) I need to make a small adjustment and pleat the skirt back just a bit at the front since I've got it meeting at the middle.
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It was more than a little windy.
My hat attempted to make an escape several times. |
All that was left at the weekend was to buy buttons and add the button holes. My machine does them and I am not a glutton for punishment, so I intended to use the machine. However, I am forgetful. I have used the buttonhole function on my machine once. At Christmas. For my green dress. I could not figure out how to get it to work then and I totally forgot how I made it work when I tried again this time.
It took an hour of Googling and fiddling with the machine to remember how to do it. Ten minutes later my button holes were done. YAY!
Undergarments
Then we moved on to the undergarments. I used Costume Close Up to draft out a pocket, which was really no big deal. Hers is made from her jacket fabric and mine is made from some toile I bought years ago and never used. Since mine is lighter weight I lined it in some faux linen that's also been languishing in my stash for years. I mounted them on some ribbon and we were good.
For the bum pads, I used the
Simplicity 8162 undergarments pattern. I just bought another copy of the pattern, but of course I couldn't find it when I was looking for it. I had to dig through a basket for the older copy.
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I like big bumpads and I cannot lie! |
Thankfully, I found it and we could move on. It went together easily, but I accidentally bought quilt batting rather than fiberfill. Whoops! And I cut mine on the selvedge rather than the fold....We made it work. Hers is made of a plain muslin and mine is more of the toile.
I actually really like my undergarments. The shape on the petticoat is (obviously) totally different (better) than when I wore it without the bum pad (Bastille Day) and I think the fabric is super cute.
Plus, those pockets are the best freaking things in the world! They're huge, so I could fit my car keys, wallet, cell phone and sunglasses with room to spare. The weight is totally supported by the stays and I didn't have to worry about pick pockets! I think I might make another to carry a water bottle... Pockets for everyone!
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Seriously, that pocket is huge. |
The Finishing Touches
Ages ago I'd found an adorable hat at the Goodwill. I assume that it's an Easter bonnet from the 1960s, but it looked like a bergere to me, so I bought it. It got buried under a pile of other hats which conveniently toppled over while I was looking for something else in the sewing
mess room. It was probably true white at some point, but age has toned it down to a creamier color. I thought it was still too light for the dress, but mentally tucked it away, just in case.
At about 10 PM on Saturday I realized I still hadn't completed my hat. I attempted to add some trim to it, but I was totally burnt out from the two day sewing marathon and I just couldn't wrap my brain around it. I decided to just go with the vintage hat.
Sunday morning, just before I left, I realized that I had no way to attach the thing to my head. I found some white ribbon in the stash and safety pinned it inside the brim to tie it around the back under my hair. It held up surprisingly well!
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The adorable tilt in the brim
may or may not have been caused
when it flew off my head
and got stuck in a doorway. |
I also knew I needed some kind of fichu, but I didn't really have any suitable fabric in my stash. I have a bad habit of taking home wayward scarves from the Goodwill, but I couldn't find anything (at 2 AM on Saturday) in the color I wanted that didn't look too modern. When I woke up I remembered that I had some more scarves in the sewing room and I found this cream lace one. It worked!
Shoes are from American Duchess. I'm wearing the oxblood
Kensingtons with the Fleur buckle and she's wearing the white Georgiana's with the Valois buckle. They're so comfortable! We walked around the city and museum for hours and they held up really well. This is the first time I've worn them for longer than an hour and I did have one blister, but I think my sock is really to blame for this one.
I'm not 100% happy with these outfits, but overall I really like both of them and people were very nice about them. I felt way less crazy walking around Philly in this than I thought I would, though we were definitely a spectacle.